Cumbrita Lechuguilla

Verdict

Most American drinkers never meet lechuguilla straight; Cumbrita makes the introduction. Dolores González Torres' single-varietal shrevei drinks specific and dry in a way southern agaves don't, and 48.3% gives the plant real space. Hunt this if you've been bored by another Oaxacan espadín. Northern mezcal has its own grammar and this is chapter one.

Tasting notes

Nose: Dry sage up front. Mineral dust, green citrus, warm earth underneath

Palate: Shrevei alone at 48.3% – Dolores González Torres lets the lechuguilla's dry-herb, almost-medicinal character lead without apology

Finish: Dry, slightly resinous. Stays very long

The bottom line

The lechuguilla to start with if you're new to the Chihuahua side

Where to buy online

We found this bottle at 5 US retailers. Prices and stock vary – click through to check.

• Madre Shop – $90
• Saratoga Wine – $96.1
• Hi-Time Wine – $83
• K&L Wines
• Astor Wines – $100