Ixcateco Ticuchi

Verdict

Ticuchi is another rare varietal that barely leaves Santa María Ixcatlán, and Alvarez's version is a credible representative. Drier and thinner than the papalome, but with the same regional handwriting. Buy with the papalome and espadilla for the full Ixcatec flight; don't start here if you're only buying one. Alvarez has earned the shelf space as much as any small Oaxacan producer we can think of.

Tasting notes

Nose: Herbal tea, dry grass, cool stone, distant smoke

Palate: 45-50% – Alvarez pulls a drier, more herbal register from ticuchi than from his papalome; the clay-pot softness is still the house signature

Finish: Medium-long, dry, herbal

The bottom line

Buy as part of the Ixcatec set