Reviews / Mezcal from San Baltazar Guélavila, Oaxaca

Mezcal from San Baltazar Guélavila, Oaxaca

San Baltazar Guélavila is one of the Tlacolula district's quieter heavyweights. The village whose espadín built much of Del Maguey Vida's early character; whose smaller palenques supply the Banhez ensamble; whose bottles carry a mineral undertone that gives them unusual food-friendliness. The signature runs structural – drier than San Dionisio, less smoky than Matatlán. Vago Joel Barriga's lineup and the smaller single-maestro projects anchor the high end; most credible Guélavila lands $35-$70.